I put the pink stain on the body and it looks suuuuuper sexy. I used a water based stain from Minwax. I got it from Lowes and they mixed the color for me.

Front looks wicked!

I also painted the neck pickup cavity black. Since I’m not using a pickguard, the inside will show.

After this dries, I’m going to put some polymerized tung oil on it. That’s some old school tung oil mixed with some new school polyurethane to make it more durable. I can build up as many coats as I want until I get the level of shine I like.

Now that the binding is attached to the Tele body, I needed to scrape it flush with the surface of the body (so you can’t feel it). Then some final sanding of the whole body. After the sanding was done, I found another small mod to make.

To smooth out the binding, I used a card scraper. This is a piece of thin steel with a straight/smooth edge and a burr added to one edge. The burr is a small sharp hook that scrapes off incredible thin pieces of material and leaves a nice smooth finish.

NGL, this was a royal pain and very tedious! I broke a small piece off near the neck pocket that will need to be glued back on.

Next step is sanding. I use 220 to sand everything nice and smooth. Then wipe it with water to raise the grain and sand it again after it dries. Then some light sanding with 320.

The binding and sanding came out great! I left a few “apprentice marks” in there that will add to the character.

I got the neck on and noticed an adjustment I wanted to make. The fretboard was a bit high off the body for my taste, so I decided to make the neck pocket deeper by 3/32″. This means I get to use my favorite tools again!

I marked off the new neck pocket depth with a marking gauge. Then I got to work with my router plane.

Next stop, pinkville!

Now is the time to install the binding on the body. The general steps are;

• Starting at the centerline of the butt, tape the center of the binding on the body tightly
• Use a heat gun to soften the binding in areas with tighter radius or the opposite direction
• Make any fine tuning needed to close gaps and relieve strain
• Wick some acetone between the binding and body
• Apply more tape or surgical tubing to hold the binding in place
• Let it sit over night to set up

Next is to “glue” the binding on. I use acetone. I did some research and watched a few videos like this one and decided to use acetone. Acer NE dissolves the binding and makes goo, the goo sticks to wood and the acetone evaporates (at least that’s the plan).

I used a small syringe with a thin tip and squeezed some acetone in and then pulled the binding tight with a million pieces of tape. I used some rubber tubing around the trouble areas to give some extra holding power.

After letting it sit overnight to harden up, I removed the rubber tubing and made a giant ball of blue tape.

The binding came out pretty good! There are some gaps in conspicuous and inconspicuous locations, but over it looks cool as shit.

Now the binding needs to be scraped level with the body. I will use my card scraper and some fine grit sandpaper for this job. I’ll probably sand the top of the guitar at the same time.

I’ll put up another update when that is done.

I am going to put some black binding on the Tele guitar body. I think it will look super cool with the pink body and other black hardware.

To install binding, you need to cut away part of the body in an accurate and clean way. I think big builders use a router and choose a cutter and bearing that cuts the right depth.

I don’t like that, so I will do it by hand. I bought a really cool special tool named a gramil that will help me do this. The gramil comes with a blade and is adjustable to cut pretty much any size rabbet.

I am very happy with the results. This tool was very fun to use!

The next step is to install the binding 😱

Telecaster style bodies are not super comfy to hold and play. Gonna make the heel where the neck meets the body more comfy and accessible.

I bought a neck plate that is curved and then knocked the corner off the body.

I’m not sure if I’m gonna plug that hole or leave it. I’m leaning toward leaving it.

Time to fix the string hole location! Now that the bridge is located, I can drill the string holes in the correct location for this bridge. After the string holes are drilled, I can install the cool brass string ferrule block.

The first step is to plug the old string holes on the back of the body. The new holes will be about 1/4″ away. Some dowel rods and glue will do the trick!

Next is time to mark the location of the new string holes using the actual bridge and then drill through the body as straight as I can. Then mark the location the ferrule block will live.

Now time to remove the wood and make a recess for the ferrule block. I used some forstner bits and chisels to do this. The block fits pretty good!

I’ll polish the ferrule block super nice before it goes on for reals.

So the tele’s name is gonna be Sex Panther. I had a brilliant idea on a headstock logo design..

Write Sex Panther in the style of the Pussy Wagon truck from the Kill Bill movie!

I know, I’m brilliant right? It’s ok to admit it.

So lucky for me, some person (who I definitely want to buy a beer for) created a computer font that mimics the writing on the truck! Also lucky for me, my lovely wife found it! The font is named Action Is and is available here.

I used the awesome open source image manipulation program named GIMP to create a Sex Panther logo like the movie, but also that looks good smaller than the tailgate of a pickup truck.

Now to order some sticker versions of this..

I plan to install a full on humbucker in the bridge. Since this body is routed for a traditional single coil pickup, I need to do some surgery.

In order to mark out the pickup location, I need to fist determine the bridge position. This was a pain in the butt, but I think I got it right.

Then the pickup area is marked on the body, and some forstner bits remove the bulk of the material.

My friend made me a template for the pickup and I’ll use this as a guide to mark out the areas for the pickup screws.

Now it’s time to get busy with the chisels. I made the cavity a little bigger to provide wiggle room for the pickup.

Now the bridge pickup cavity is done 😀

Next I will do some sanding on the edges, locate and drill the new string holes, and install the brass ferrule block on the back of the body.