I want to start routing the Tele body to install the humbucker. That means placing the bridge in the correct spot and marking the pickup location.
Easy peasy. Just put the bridge on and line up the string holes with the holes in the body. Then a quick double check with a correct size neck to make sure the saddles are in the correct spot with some adjustment and all should be good.
Except it’s not
Apparently this guitar body is made for vintage style telecaster bridge, not a modern one like I have. This means the holes for the strings are in the wrong spot. Vintage bridges have the string holes farther back from the saddles.
Bummer, but much better to figure this out now than later!
What to do now? Move the string holes to the right spot (about a 1/4″ toward the neck). No big deal because the bridge will cover this up.
I’ll also have to deal with the ferrule holes on the back of the body. I’ll prolly plug the holes and then install one of these cool brass string ferrule blocks.
The Tele body came with some yellow stain and lacquer as a finish. I need to strip it off so I can fill the grain and some holes around the knots and stuff. The goal of this is to make the wood really smooth so it ends up smooth and shiny at the end.
I used a random orbit sander to remove the bulk of existing. Lucky it was thin and came off quickly.
Change of plans with my Telecaster guitar build. I’m going to do some customizing of the guitar body. I also decided to go for a more smooth finish instead of the “barn” kinda finish.
I also consulted with my wife boss about the color. She is not a fan of the yellow and suggested pink! I’m sold!
I like the look of the wood grain and decided to stick with a transparent color. I found a minwax stain in a cool pink color at Lowes. I think it looks really sweet!
I also get a kick out of naming these guitars. The wife has great suggestions and threw out Pink Panther. I took that name and twisted it a bit and decided on “Sex Panther”. If you need an explanation..
60% of the time, it stays in tune every time
It’s made with bits of real panther so you know it’s good.
It’s a formidable sound. It stings the ears…in a good way.
Let’s go see if we can make this kitty purr
What is that sound?!? It’s the sound of desire m-lady.
Time to build a Telecaster! I’m taking my time on this one.
Here are some photos of the body. It is sprayed with yellow lacquer and I LOVE the look of it. This sucker is gonna get a maple neck with a strat shaped headstock, a humbucker in the bridge, and all black hardware.
The Vangaurd has a double locking Floyd Rose tremolo system. I have the bridge set up fully floating so you can both lower and raise the pitch. The neck has a locking nut and the strings are anchored straight to the saddles. It makes a very stable system that can stay in tune even with silly dove bombs.
There are downsides to a fully floating system though
One string can pull the others out of tune (double stop bends are sad)
Tuning is difficult because the strings are balanced against spring force
Changing tuning is tedious and multi-step process
There are various ways to fix the issues above, but most of them take all the fun out of having a Floyd Rose. I decided to install a Tremol-No system. Using a couple thumb screws, you can change the guitar to fully floating, dive only (only lower the pitch), or fixed bridge. It’s easy enough to do it between songs while standing up. There is no drilling or soldering required, and no permanent modifications
It takes about an hour to install and only requires basic tools.
It works really good! Changing it to “dive only” let’s me change to Drop D or E flat real quick which is the biggest selling point for me.
The geetar is assembled and making noise. It is now that it becomes a guitar again for the first time in forever. Next is time to do the setup.
First up is putting strings on and putting springs in the tremolo. I like Ernie Ball Super Slinkies for the extreme bendiness they impart.
Next is the “fun” part of setting up a Floyd Rose. You have to balance the pull of the strings against the pull of the springs on the back. You keep going back and forth between tightening the strings and adjusting the claw that holds the springs to bring both up to full tension at the same time. At the end of the day, you need to have the strings tuned to pitch at the same time keep the bridge in a level position. It kinda sucks, but a properly set up Floyd is heckin fun!.
The new frets on the neck are taller than the old ones. This means the action at the first fret is too low (the strings buzz when played open). There should be a gap between the first fret and the string. This website says the gap should be 0.024″ on E and 0.010″ on the e.
I loosened the nut and inserted some feeler gauges underneath until I had the correct gap. Then I cut chunks of the feeler gauge off and pushed them in.
Then I checked everything else. I’ll check it in a few days, but the truss rod didn’t need any adjustment 😲. I checked the intonation and incredibly it was perfect on 4 strings and close enough on the other 2. I’ll leave it alone and let it settle into being a guitar for a few days before finishing the set up. I also fine tuned the action, and set the pickup heights.
I also polished up the frets using micro mesh pads. These things are great and put a mirror finish on frets and maximize total bendiness. I tape the fretboard off to protect it from polishing crud and go through all the pads (I have a set of 9). The last few pads really make a difference.
There are a few jobs left to do, but they are back burner for now.
Wait for the moose to deliver the decal
Install the decal and clear/polish the headstock face
I did the wiring on the guitar. I never get it right the first time. In this case it’s kinda good.
The original pickup selector switch was a mini toggle switch and I bought a new one to replace it. The wiring for them is really weird and the switch is small. I decided to replace the switch with a toggle like is used on a Les Paul. That means I need a bigger hole!
I used a wiring diagram from the excellent Seymour Duncan website. They provide wiring diagrams in the style of the old paperclip in word.
The new toggle works but it’s silver, too silver. I wanted a black one to match the rest of the hardware. Amazon to the rescue.
A couple days later I get the black switch and finish the wiring. It’s kind of a mess and I’m not proud of it, but it seems to work. The kill switch even lights up!
The to do list is getting smaller!
Logo and clear the headstock after the Royal Canadian Mounties deliver it
Reduce thickness of pickup rings (they are too thick)
Time to finish the neck (sorta). The sorta comes in because I’m still waiting for the new headstock decal.
I sanded the neck nice and smooth and removed a few scars. Then time to seal it up with some clear. I dig a satin finish the best so that’s what I’m gonna do. A few coats of Krylon satin finish clear should do the trick.
Next is to assemble the hardware. I installed the locking nut for the tremolo system, the tuning machines, and the holder for the hex keys that work the tremolo and locking nut.
I tested the polishing on the back of the guitar. It took a few tries and going back to do some more wet sanding, but I got it to a place I’m happy with.
My brother let me borrow his dual action polisher and some products to use made by Meguiars.
I was and still am nervous. I’m not going for perfect, but I want it too look good from a few feet away and not have any huge oopsies. I think I accomplished that.
You can even see the sky in it!
The next step is to wet sand the front and polish the sides and front.
I started to wet sand the guitar body today. I’m super nervous about it so I started on the back. I put more clear purple on the front and top side than I did on the back.
I’m using 800, 1500, and 2000 grit wet/dry paper. I’m using some water with a bit of soap to wet the paper and flood the surface. I’m wrapping the paper around a pink eraser.
This area shows what a couple passes with 800 looks like. The dull surface is the high spot, and the shiny is the low spots.
A few more passes and the low spots mostly disappear
1500 and 2000 in opposite directions take care of the scratches from the rough papers.
2000 paper
Next I’ll use some rubbing compound to remove scratches from 2000 and then some polish to make it shine!
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